Castle’s in Royal College Street

IT is one of London’s best- known pie and mash shops, having served eels and liquor for the past 100 years.

But Castle’s in Royal College Street is opening on a Sunday for possibly the first time in a century to celebrate the life of one of the people who made it all possible.

Fred Castle, who worked in the restaurant for nearly 30 years, died in July shortly after his 80th birthday, and his family will pay tribute to him with a special tea, coffee and cake fundraiser for the National Society of the Prevention of Cruelty to Children.

Castle’s Pie and Mash, using the same secret family recipes for decades, was founded by Lil Castle in the 1920s and has been in its current site since 1934. It’s been passed on through the family and Fred was Lil’s nephew, born during the war in Archway in 1943.

He met his wife-to-be Maureen when they were 14: they lived in the same street and would have four daughters and one son.

The couple were due to celebrate their 60th anniversary this year. Fred had previously worked in the Post Office as a telegram boy, and recalled delivering messages to Buckingham Palace, Downing Street and stars at The Savoy.

Fred Castle with Ann Clark

In 1964, he became a Sainsbury’s storeman and stayed with the firm for three decades, joining a trade union and becoming a respected shop steward.

But in 1995, he donned an apron and joined the family restaurant. Fred was known as the potato man – he would check each one, and then put them through a miller machine to remove the skin. Eels come fresh each morning from Billingsgate market.

In times past, barrels of live eels would be taken into a back yard where their heads would be lopped off before being boiled.

Ann Clark, who worked with Fred for 30 years, added: “The older generation love the stewed eels, and we get a lot of tourists coming in to try them. We boil them up with peppercorns, which enhances the flavour and we serve jellied eels in pots so people can take them away. Everything is made fresh each day. The customers know that.”

A classic dish at Castle’s

Fred had many passions. He would listen to The Archers on Radio Four, slipping out of the kitchen to catch an episode.

He loved a cup of tea – and would constantly have one on the go as he worked. Away from the restaurant, Fred was a keen gardener and he loved musicals and holidays in Las Vegas, not for the casinos but for the shows. While he cooked traditional fare, Fred had a love of fine dining.

He enjoyed afternoon teas at The Savoy, Claridge’s, The Dorchester and the Landmark in Marylebone. Fred had a sweet tooth – the Castle’s fruit pies and custard are famous, while he could be charmed by a gift of a packet of liquorice allsorts.

His love for Maureen never wavered, and in 2019, the couple travelled to Las Vegas to renew their wedding vows. And the shop saw him make many good friends.

Ms Clark said: “Everybody who came in, Fred would stop for a chat. He’d put the pies in the oven and then have a natter. He’d bring out the mash and have another chat. He loved to tell the tourists where the eels came from and the history behind it. He was the main man for that.

“You could not want for a better person to work with. He never got angry with anyone, never raised his voice. He was a true gent. He had a big, big heart and there will never be another like Fred.”

Castle’s is opening this Sunday, September 24, from 12pm to serve food in Fred’s memory. All funds raised will go to the NSPCC.