Penny Burdett with one of her creations

FOR nearly 40 years, Penny Burdett has sat at the knitting machine in Camden Market and created one-off fashion items for a band of loyal customers.

One of the longest-serving shops in the famous bazaar, she has been a cornerstone in the market’s success.

But now says she is closing up for good, and blames management for upping rents – and losing sight of what makes Camden Town unique.

She said: “LabTech say working here is about being part of a family but they are asking family members to leave home. It’s like being kicked out of the nest.”

The New Journal reported last week that a workers-instigated survey had revealed discontent with how the markets are managed and promoted – and that new a rent rise of £3,000, which includes a social media service, was unaffordable.

Ms Burdett said: “They have said it is a 10 per cent rent rise this year with more to follow. They have added extra costs – for one TikTok post a year and a bit on their web page they are asking for £3,000. That is unaffordable and not good value for money.

“They have said ‘sign or you’re not getting a new lease’. It means all the stalls of any interest will go. The ethos of Camden Market is that it is unique and that is being lost.”

LabTech say the rise is the first since rents were frozen in 2019 and added that of 800 independent businesses only a small number have expressed unhappiness. Traders will benefit from their advertising know-how to boost trade, the company said.

The clothes designer in the early days

A spokesman said they would be sad to see the shop close, adding: “We are extremely grateful for the time she’s spent with us. Penny has been a trader for 38 years, an impressive amount of time, and a great example of how Camden Market offers an environment where businesses can thrive.

“Camden Market will always be the home of independent business. Our commercial strategy has been developed around this, and has ensured traders received support through tough economic situations, such as Covid-19.

“We thank Penny for her contribution to Camden Market over the past three decades, and wish her all the very best for the future.”

Ms Burdett first opened by the Lock in November 1986. An arts graduate, she was interested in textile design.

She said: “I showed up on a Saturday morning at 7.30am. I paid £5 for a stall and sold three items. I thought I’d made it.”

She has been in situ ever since, and watched the markets evolve.

“There were people making things everywhere, doing interesting work, and lots of great secondhand clothes,” she said.

“There was nowhere to buy food except a place called Huffs that sold falafels.”

The ad hoc nature of the market world suited some but it wasn’t without challenges.

She recalled: “It wasn’t always plain sailing. Sometimes you’d come for a stall and your name wouldn’t be picked out of the hat so you’d have to go home.”

The markets have been consolidated under one owner in recent years and Ms Burdett claims there has been a falling-away of communication since the takeover.

She said: “They used to collect the rent so you could discuss business. Not any more.  And the customer is different. It was always touristy but now people are solely coming to window shop, have an experience and eat. Most don’t come with the intention of buying anything at all.”

Eight years ago a food-orientated area in West Yard became a key driver for footfall.

But the switch has not helped everyone, Ms Burdett said, especially in the attempt to bounce back from the coronavirus crisis.

She said: “After Covid, takings were down 50 per cent and they have not recovered. Since Christmas, I haven’t made enough to meet the rent.”

Meanwhile, an observation wheel is set to be built a stone’s throw from her shop with work due to start later this year.

She said: “It will be ghastly. The money spent would be better used improving their website and helping us with online shopping.”

Bringing in more things to do isn’t the core attraction of the market and will not help stalls, she claimed.

She said: “They look to put on experiences but [themed immersive experiences] Peaky Blinders and Lara Croft were failures. They need to concentrate on looking after what the place is famous for: the market traders.”

Ms Burdett said ending a 38-year relationship when her lease ends in May was not an easy decision.

“I will miss the camaraderie but I can’t carry on,” she said.