Café Deco – cool and sophisticated

TUCKED away in Bloomsbury, Café Deco brings together two stars of London’s food and drink scene.

Chef Anna Tobias has worked in some of the most highly regarded and trendy restaurants in the capital, including The River Cafe, P Franco and Rochelle Canteen. The other partner is the team behind 40 Maltby Street, a wine bar and wine importer in Bermondsey. As you might expect, Café Deco is a cool and sophisticated place to eat out.

The venue is one of a chic row of shops in Store Street, a stone’s throw from The British Museum. Here you’ll find Treadwell’s Books, a specialist in the occult with workshops in Marseille tarot and psychedelic magic. There’s a bike shop, an art supplies store, the Greek deli and, directly opposite, a branch of a restaurant called Macellaio, known for its gutsy Italian butchery.

Café Deco is tastefully done up: lots of natural light, pastel tiles, fresh flowers and flickering candles in the evening.

In the front room, there’s a small marble counter and a scattering of wooden tables; more seating in a separate room downstairs. I took a table at the counter, looking out on the street as students on skateboards whizzed past.

The menu here changes often, guided by the seasons and the whims of the chefs. You can snack on little toasts topped with brandade and roast tomatoes; a plate of fine charcuterie sliced to order.

Starters included a fish soup with rouille or a plate of squeaky fresh mozzarella with grilled courgettes and a fragrant olive sauce. I enjoyed a chunk of toast topped with peperonata, a rustic red pepper sauce, and thin slivers of lardo (£10). This dish is all about texture and temperature: the sauce must be served hot – but not scorching – so that the lardo fat starts to melt and glisten.

There’s no faulting the quality on offer here. The wine list is spectacular, with lots of choice by the glass; aperitifs and cocktails include little-known concoctions such as a Pompier or Adonis, made with a base of vermouth.

My one small quibble was with the cost of my main course. I went for a haunch of rabbit served with girolles and creamed sweetcorn. It cost £35 for a small portion which didn’t last long. Instinctively, this felt way too high; on the other hand, restaurants are struggling with the rocketing cost of power and raw ingredients.

Other main courses included a green bean, potato and cannellini bean stew (£23) or roast lamb with anchovy and Provençal tomato (£35).

The dessert menu is a distillation of the summer. Pick from a damson curd tart with crème fraiche, a peach ice cream or baked cream with summer berries and shortbread.

Café Deco is a lovely neighbourhood café, wine bar and restaurant – run by a friendly team with impeccable taste.

Envy all those who live and work nearby, who can make it their regular haunt.

Café Deco
43 Store Street, WC1E
0208 091 2108
hello@cafe-deco.co.uk
www.cafe-deco.co.uk
@cafe_deco_bloomsbury