NOTHING beats the buzz of Exmouth Market and its blend of old and new.

Moro Restaurant, halfway down, is a veteran on the street and has been happily trading for more than quarter of a century. This is a milestone for any restaurant – and the perfect excuse for a visit.

There are lots of legends in this neighbourhood. A few minutes away is The Eagle in Farringdon Road, the first of the gastropubs. The Quality Chop House nearby has roots that stretch back to 1869.

Moro made its name serving what the owners, Sam and Sam Clark, describe as Moorish cuisine – a loose fusion of Spanish dishes with influences from North Africa and the Middle East.

There’s nothing particularly fancy about the restaurant itself. It’s one room with a long bar stretching down the left-hand side. You can perch here for tapas: Padron peppers, crispy chickpeas, baba ganoush or slivers of jamon.

The drinks list is brief and focussed on high quality wines from Spain. Specials on our visit included a pomegranate cava.

I guess part of the magic of Moro is that it feels so comforting and grown-up. The staff know their stuff and look like they want to work there. Many have been loyal to Moro for years.

The restaurant is also packed most nights, which guarantees a bubbly atmosphere.

A starter of crab meat, folded into a thin sheet of brik pastry then deep fried, was top of our hit list – but had sadly sold out.

We shared a warm salad composed of slices of grilled cuttlefish swimming in a dressing of diced tomato, coco beans and green chilli.

A pigeon breast, sliced into thick chunks, is served on a rich garlic purée.

There’s a sweetcorn and cumin soup with a garnish of crisp morcilla – mopped up with chunks of their rustic sourdough bread.

Main courses hover around £34. This is not cheap, by any means, but these price points are – unfortunately – increasingly common these days due to hikes in costs. At Moro, at least, you get your money’s worth with a generous and well-balanced plate of food.

Their mixed vegetable mezze could feed three people: a rainbow-coloured plate loaded with grilled vegetables, salads, dips and pillowy flatbreads.

I had the wood roasted piri piri chicken, with a piles of green beans and fried angel hair potatoes – with the obligatory pungent alioli on the side.

If Moro is full – or you want a cheaper night out – you could try Morito, their tapas bar next door.

They mix inventive drinks, too, such as a manzanilla sour and are known for their range of vermouths.

As we left Moro, I asked one the staff why Moro has thrived for so long. “We have such a solid following. They love the fact it’s not changed and the staff feel like family.” She then paused for a moment: “I think they feel safe.”

Moro Restaurant
34-36 Exmouth Market, EC1R
020 7833 8336
@restaurantmoro
www.moro.co.uk