A class act that lingers in the memory – L’Atelier Robuchon

IN his lifetime, French chef Joël Robuchon was a legend – holding 31 Michelin stars at one time. He died in 2018 but the name lives on in: emblazoned above the doors of a global chain of restaurants and delicatessens, with several here in London.

Cooking of this calibre does not come cheap. Robuchon is a synonym for fine dining and his menus are renowned for their creativity and technical skill.

For most of us, the closest we’ll get is the famous cube-shaped croissants, priced £6.95, which became a viral hit on Instagram early this year. These are sold in the two Robuchon delis on the King’s Road and Piccadilly.

In a stroke of good luck, I got an invitation to L’Atelier Robuchon, a restaurant recently relaunched as a less formal and fancy place to eat out – at least compared to their flagship venues in Hong Kong, Miami and Taipei.

The interior is ravishing. As you enter, there is a marble bar on the left with high velvet stools, the walls lined with ruched linen wallpaper. The main dining room is painted in deep reds with flashes of black and green, with elaborate and subtle lighting and an art deco vibe.

We sat at the counter overlooking the open kitchen, where a team of chefs calmly constructed their works of art.

The executive chef – a handsome chap from Italy – patrolled up and down, tasting stocks and sauces with teaspoons and chatting smoothly with the clientele.

One chef vigorously stirred a huge pot of the famous mashed potato, saturated with the finest butter in a ratio of two to one.

We had a starter of sea bream carpaccio, the raw fish sliced gossamer thin then arranged in a perfect oval on the plate before a decoration with poppy seeds, lime zest and a lemon vinaigrette.

There was a meaty main course of vertiginous beauty, with a squid ink tuile and swirls of various sauces; a trademark dessert called “La Vanilla”, which showcases the spice in four ways.

You could try the lobster spaghetti with a coral emulsion; a pumpkin stuffed with fregola, chanterelles and sage.

They even serve the classic but old-school baked Alaska, infused with orange and almond then flambéed with Grand Marnier.

The cheapest starter on the evening menu is £16. Main courses average around £40. You could spend a small fortune here if you wished, and some people do. But for most it’s a once-in-a-lifetime dining experience and ideal if someone else can pick up the bill.

I suggest dressing up and taking a seat at the bar. There is live music most weeks and the cocktails are sensational.

The lunchtime menu is less formidable, too, with two courses for £42.

Robuchon is a class act, for sure, and will linger long in the memory. I had never experienced anything quite like it.

Atelier Joël Robuchon
6 Clarges Street, W1J
020 8076 0570
www.robuchonlondon.co.uk
@latelierrobuchonmayfair